Split/Semi Bezels

Lesson: Split/ Semi Bezel

Split or Semi bezels are a good setting when you want more light to hit the stone than with a full bezel and want more protection than a prong setting. Semi bezel settings are basically a bezel that instead of going all of the way around, they bracket the stone like parentheses.

To make a semi-bezel, follow the same steps as a regular bezel. Once the stone fits and everything is soldered together, cut out the areas you want to remove. In creating a functional semi-bezel, you do not want to completely separate the 2 bezel halves. You either need to make the bezel walls much thicker or leave most of the material below the seat.

By making the bezel very thick, you ensure that the halves will not distort when set and have enough integrity to hold the stone in place. Many cast semi bezels use this method- they still may have some filigree or a small bezel in the middle of the 2 halves, but it is not a structural element. By leaving most of the material intact below the seat, you use that material to keep the halves from distorting upon setting.

Semi-bezel settings in general are thick bezels- 14ga or thicker. 

Layout:

• Make sure that the end angles of the bezels are correct and even.
• If you extend a line out from the ends of the bezels it should go through the center of the stone.
• Clean up the area between the bezel halves with the flat graver.
• Clean up any crevices with the needle burnisher.
• Make sure that the top of the setting is flat and even.
• Measure so that the culet is centered in the opening.

Cutting the seat:

• Use a setting bur to cut the pavilion shelf.
• You will need to free hand cut the shelf.
• Focus on the center of each bezel part, since the burs will try to skip out to the edges.
• If the pavilion shelf gets too thick, use a bud bur to reduce it.
• Drill a hole through the bottom of the setting and clean up.
• Check the stone in the setting with Seat Check.
• If there are specific spots that show up with the Seat Check, clean these with an onglette graver.
• If the stone is rocking just a little bit, take a small ball bur and shave down the area and the pavilion shelf.
• Clean off the seat check with a natural bristle brush.
• Cut the inside chamfer with a setting bur.
• Really watch the edges of the bezel when cutting the chamfer- it should be even the entire way around.
• File an outside chamfer.

Setting the stone:

• Place the stone into the setting.
• Tap the ends first with the flat end of a chasing hammer (less dents).
• To keep the walls from mushrooming, roll from the outside in.
• After hammering the entire bezel, move to the steel punch.
• Check the ends to make sure that they aren’t spreading out from the stone.
• If they are, tap them back into place.
• Shape the bezel on the outside by filing to keep it smooth and even.
• Clean the inside chamfer with the flat graver.
• Burnish with the snowshoe burnisher.
• Be careful not to fall out at the ends of the bezels.
• File a slight outside chamfer to finish.
• If the wall goes out or is thinner at the ends, needle burnish the top to stretch.
• After filing and burnishing, finish with flat graver, then use the pumice wheel.