Flat Backed (Cup) Bezels

Lesson: Flat backed Bezels

Bezels are one of the most common ways of setting stones. With a bezel, the stone has a wall or lip of metal all of the way around it holding it in place. Bezel settings are good for all types of regular cut stones. Uncut, rough cut and drusy-style stones can be set in bezels, but due to the uneven surface and height of these stones it is trickier to get a good-looking setting. Bezels are also commonly used to set enameled pieces, fused glass work, and coins.

Bezel walls are formed out of metal anywhere from 14ga-30ga. The thinner the metal the easier it is to set. 24-28ga. are industry standards for pre-fabricated bezel wire. Some jewelers prefer the look of a thicker bezel.

Bezels can be formed from any metal. Frequently, bezel strip is sold in fine silver rather than sterling as it is easier to set and can be fused rather than soldered, thereby eliminating a joint.

Make and finish your bezel, then solder setting to the piece. You will have a little cleanup after soldering, but it is much easier to do the majority of cleaning and sanding prior to attaching the setting.

Setting the stone should be one of the last steps.

After the stone is set you may apply patinas (depending on stone and patina), or do a final polish/finish. You cannot heat the piece, solder the piece, pickle the piece, or tumble the piece after setting.

Flat Bezel (Cup bezel):

• Best for flat bottomed cabochons.
• Consider piercing or texturing the back for effect.
• Remember to put at least a hole on the back so that you can get your stone in and out prior to setting.
• Form your bezel wall.
• Solder. If using fine silver bezel wire, fuse.
• File and sand.
• Form perfectly to stone using pliers, mallet and mandrel.
• Make sure your stone fits well! It should be snug.
• If you need to make the bezel larger, planish.
• To make smaller, cut a piece out and resolder.
• Solder to bottom sheet.
• Cut off excess bottom sheet, file, sand, and finish.
• Trim bezel wall to correct height, file and sand.
• Make sure to sand the top of your bezel flat. This will create a more professional finish after setting.