Monday, February 23, 2015

Basket Settings

Lesson: Basket Settings
Basket settings are commonly used for faceted stones that you would like to seat higher on a piece than prongs allow or for larger faceted stones as the basket offers more structure and security.
  • Form a piece of wire to sit under your stone. The edges of the wire should meet the edge of your stone. This is the seat for the stone
  • Form another wire shape smaller than the first.
  • Solder each shape closed.
  • Using your round needle file, file grooves on each ring to orient the prongs for soldering.
  • Cut 1 piece of wire (long) for every 2 prongs you want.
  • Form prong wires into U shapes.
  • Using third hands and pumice rocks hold the U shapes in an X pattern.
  • Slide the smaller ring inside the wires and orient so that the grooves match up with the wires.
  • Solder smaller ring to wires.
  • Slip larger ring inside the wires and hold with a third hand.
  • Solder larger ring to wires.
  • Clip off the bottom of the U shapes and file the ends of the wires to meet flush with the bottom ring.
  • Do any other soldering.
To set:
  • Place stone in the setting, and mark where each prong meets the girdle.
  • Clip off the prongs and round the ends with a cup bur
  • Use a hart bur to cut a groove about 20% through each prong at your mark.
  • Use nylon-jaw pliers or the prong pusher to push the prongs over the stone.
  • They will bend where you have the grooves.
  • The stone should be secure in the setting with no movement.

Other soldering options for basket settings:
  • Place large ring on soldering board.
  • Place U shapes tips down and push into soldering board until the grooves meet the wires.
  • Solder ring to wires.
  • Slip smaller ring into setting and hold with third hand.
  • Solder smaller ring to wires.
  • Clip off bottom of U shapes and follow above steps.
  • You can also use a soldering aid clay or casting investment to hold all of the pieces in place and do all of your soldering at once.


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